Hidden Delights of San Telmo

At the end of the road where impregnable mountains meet the sea, less than 10 minutes west of Puerto Andratx, is San Telmo, Sant Elm in Catalan. 

This small fishing village, facing South and West, used as a resting point by King Jaume’s fleet in the 13th Century at the start of the Mallorcan conquest, is protected by the small islet of Pantaleu a few hundred metres off shore and the larger isle of  Sa Dragonera. The charm of this pleasantly simple village are the fishermen's houses built directly at the sea's edge, many acting as a break between the Mediterranean Sea and this most westerly corner of the island.

Today the livelihood of the villagers is based as much on the sea and its harvest, as on the revenue generated from tourism, which is small scale from the limited hotel and apartment accommodation available. San Telmo is famed for its fish & paella restaurants and on summer weekends, yachts from around the South West coast can be seen anchored just off shore, whilst owners and friends enjoy a land based meal. Small wooden boats anchored in the sanctuary of the islet Pantaleu, and those pulled up slipways are proof of a living fishing village.  Here you find fishermen putting to sea with baited 'long lines', fish hooks and lobster pots, and as evening darkens, oil lamps to attract at night time, the popular squid.

The wild but magnificent Sa Dragonera isle, used throughout history by pirates and smugglers because of its strategic position, is not only a location of stunning sunsets but was declared a nature reserve in 1985 and continues to be home to many rare creatures. From the hundreds of endemic Lilfords lizards that venture so close they may rest a while on your shoe, to the swarms of gulls that gather on the cliffs soaking up the sun, creatures great and small roam wild and free on this dragon shaped isle, that can be explored by taking a short boat trip from the village.

During summer, boats bring visitors from Puerto Andratx and Santa Ponsa to spend a few hours in San Telmo, others will step ashore for refreshments from excursion boats visiting Sa Dragonera. San Telmo has a delightful sandy beach and close-by beach view cafés. For those wanting the intimacy of seclusion, there are small sandy coves, whilst others might sunbathe on one of many of the rock outcrops that reach into the beautifully crystal clear water of this part of the undisturbed Mediterranean. Waterfront homes seldom come on the market and those owning such gems, whether in need of modernisation or not, must bear the gaze of envy from those promenading the romantic walkway.

In the milder months, San Telmo is a perfect base for walkers. Conveniently nestled at the start of the Tramuntana Mountain range, the region boasts some of the best nature trails and viewpoints in Mallorca. A day out can start on your doorstep with an hour’s walk up through La Trapa National Park bringing you to the former Trappist monastery. Along the way, look out for the fourteen different kinds of orchid and other beautiful flora unique to this area. The remains of the monastery and in particular, the perfect examples of dry stone walling are worthy of a visit in their own right, but the highlight is certainly the view across to the isles from the cliff tops.

San Telmo is a hidden treasure that buzzes in summer with happy locals and individual visitors alike, falling into a gentle November to Easter sleep.