The painted tiles of Fornalutx
The
residents of Fornalutx, argue that their village is the prettiest in
Mallorca. Situated deep in the heart of the Tramuntana, its winding
streets and narrow stoned steps display a delightful array of colourful
flowers and greenery. They may well be right. But at a closer glance,
it is quite obvious that this town’s beauty is more than just skin deep.
High up in the eaves of the immaculate stone-clad townhouses, lies the
evidence of an ancient tradition, missed by the passer by should he not
know where to look. That of an art form and ritual that stretched for
more than three centuries: The painted tiles of Fornalutx.
You
have to look hard at first to spot them, but then, once seen, they are
everywhere. As mysterious as they are intriguing, around twenty eight
of the town’s houses display these projecting roof tiles, depicting a
myriad of painted images. From people to animals, religious signs to
astral symbols, their presence is unique to only a handful of villages
on the Iberian peninsular.
Painted
mainly in red, some date as far back as the 16th Century, the most
recent, early 1800´s. Possibly designed by the original house owner and
painted by the master builder or even a family member, their primary
purpose apart from their decorative qualities, was to protect the
building and its occupants from any misfortune that may come their way.
From bad weather, to back luck in love, as time went by, the beliefs of
the townsfolk changed, as did the designs.
Village
resident and Artist, Jaume Pinya, knows more than most about these
extraordinary pieces of history. Alongside Dr. Jaume Coll Conesa,
director of the National Museum of Ceramics in Valencia, he recently
documented every painted tile in Mallorca, finding the largest
concentration by far, in Fornalutx, Biniaritx and Sóller. Delving into
their origins, their meanings, their reasons for being, he argues that
there are many possibilities. “Apart from them serving as a form of
protection, it is quite possible that people believed that if they were
to take land from God to build their house on, they should pay some
kind of tax. Maybe
the tiles are an expression of their gratitude”, says Jaume. The fact
that he has established that the oldest tile in town was painted in
August of 1691 is quite an extraordinary feat, but he has also
discovered that over time, as different houses were renovated, there is
evidence of perhaps two or three different artists that have
contributed to tile designs on the same house. Thanks to his work, the
houses displaying tiles are now legally protected and he is currently
working towards a possible future tile museum for the village.
To
view these unique tiles for yourselves, visit the town hall in
Fornalutx. Look directly opposite at the large house called C’an Xoroi.
Tilt your head towards the heavens…..Once seen, you will then find with
ease many others by merely taking a short walk around the village
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