The residents of Fornalutx, argue that their village is the prettiest in Mallorca. Situated deep in the heart of the Tramuntana, its winding streets and narrow stoned steps display a delightful array of colourful flowers and greenery. They may well be right. But at a closer glance, it is quite obvious that this town’s beauty is more than just skin deep.
High up in the eaves of the immaculate stone-clad townhouses, lies the evidence of an ancient tradition, missed by the passer by should he not know where to look. That of an art form and ritual that stretched for more than three centuries: The painted tiles of Fornalutx.
Tiles of FornalutxYou have to look hard at first to spot them, but then, once seen, they are everywhere. As mysterious as they are intriguing, around twenty eight of the town’s houses display these projecting roof tiles, depicting a myriad of painted images. From people to animals, religious signs to astral symbols, their presence is unique to only a handful of villages on the Iberian peninsular.
Painted mainly in red, some date as far back as the 16th Century, the most recent, early 1800´s. Possibly designed by the original house owner and painted by the master builder or even a family member, their primary purpose apart from their decorative qualities, was to protect the building and its occupants from any misfortune that may come their way. From bad weather, to back luck in love, as time went by, the beliefs of the townsfolk changed, as did the designs.
Village resident and Artist, Jaume Pinya, knows more than most about these extraordinary pieces of history. Alongside Dr. Jaume Coll Conesa, director of the National Museum of Ceramics in Valencia, he recently documented every painted tile in Mallorca, finding the largest concentration by far, in Fornalutx, Biniaritx and Sóller. Delving into their origins, their meanings, their reasons for being, he argues that there are many possibilities. “Apart from them serving as a form of protection, it is quite possible that people believed that if they were to take land from God to build their house on, they should pay some kind of tax. The Tiles of FornalutxMaybe the tiles are an expression of their gratitude”, says Jaume. The fact that he has established that the oldest tile in town was painted in August of 1691 is quite an extraordinary feat, but he has also discovered that over time, as different houses were renovated, there is evidence of perhaps two or three different artists that have contributed to tile designs on the same house. Thanks to his work, the houses displaying tiles are now legally protected and he is currently working towards a possible future tile museum for the village.
To view these unique tiles for yourselves, visit the town hall in Fornalutx. Look directly opposite at the large house called C’an Xoroi. Tilt your head towards the heavens…..Once seen, you will then find with ease many others by merely taking a short walk around the village