Le livre de la vie
“The book of life
Joaquín Golart could be said to represent the memory of Sóller. It is he who remembers the many people who have lived – and died - in this small corner on the western side of Majorca. Golart is the person who accompanied them on their final journey, and also the one who laid them down in their eternal resting place within one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the whole of Majorca. And this, through almost four decades.
The Cementiri is spread out over five different levels on land situated above Sóller’s train station, and is enclosed by an imposing stone wall. “It has been in use since 1820”, Golart informs us. It was extended on several occasions, most recently in 1989. Through one of its four arches we can gain access to its interior – with its various steps, terraced pathways and wide avenues.
Sóller’s local authority has declared its cemetery a historical monument, where visitors are welcome. You would almost imagine yourself in a park, with its numerous flowers and trees, particularly roses, mimosas, palms and cypresses. Many tombs are ornately decorated, particularly those belonging to the rich “Solleric” families. There are several small chapels, such as the one dedicated to the Oliver Enseñat family, which is adorned with candelabras and Christ depicted upon the cross; there are obelisks pointing towards the sky and engraved with the name of the deceased; marble angels can be found watching over the tombs – gazing forlornly into the distance.
In the early 20th century, distinguished sculptors of that time, such as the Catalan Josep Llimona, created statues from sandstone and Italian Carrara marble for these very graveyards
“Our cemetery is truly international in character”, relates the 69 year old Golart, who retired many years ago. Majorcan, Spanish, German, English – and, frequently, French texts are to be found engraved on the head-stones. A notre père, à notre ami, à notre tante (to our father, to our friend, to our Aunt). “Nous ne vous oublierons jamais”, we will never forget you. Also, small plaques brought from Lourdes, the home of all pilgrims, reassure in French that “We pray for you in the Grotte Bénie …”
One is thus immersed in the tales and destinies of those who left to explore southern France. “Each week, two ships ladened with oranges left the port of Sóller bound for Sète, Toulon and Marseilles”, Golart recalls. The trade in citrus fruit reached its height at the end of the 19th century. And although many islanders set off there seeking to improve their fortune – they returned home to seek their eternal resting place, albeit carrying with them the imprint of their lives abroad. Various verses from Lamartine (see above) adorn those graves.
The chirping of birds overhead, the crunch of pebbles underfoot and the distant whistle of the “express” on its way to and from the port. This is a setting full of dignity, sublime, in the truest sense of the word. “From here on high, one can see not only pastures, fields and mountains, but one can also enjoy a beautiful view of the harbour”, says the old man, smiling. He has not lost his sense of humour, in all the years through which he continued to bury Sóller’s dead.